he
nemes-headcloth, the most used headcloth in the representation of the
Pharaoh, was, originaly, only made by a simple piece of cloth, which,
applied to a head or a wig, made it possible to cover it and protect it.
This original cloth had a rectangular
form and its provision on the head was simple : higher edge came to
place the length of the face, circumvented the ears for, finally, hanging
in the vacuum above the shoulders.
With
the back, instead of leaving free fabric, the ends were surely brought
closer and laid out in a cadenette. By this provision on a head, even
shaven, certain parts of the nemes, like the temporal areas or the cap,
will appear, but they are not yet completely clear as it will be the case
as of the "succeeded" first nemes of IVe dynasty.

By observing the statue of Djoser preserved at the Egyptian
museum of Cairo (JE 49158), it seems obvious that this headcloth covered
a wig or hair, and thus played his protective part. This wig is not visible
in its totality, the higher part being covered by fabric, it's not thus
obvious to study it and of knowing which was its form, in particular on
the level top of the head.
Astonishment, the statues which
we have of its successors do not show us already more wig (for example,
the head of sphinx of Didoufri preserved at the Louvre (E 12626) or various
statues of Khephren)!
Which form could have this wig
well?

There
exists, fortunately, some rare works presenting a wig strong resembling
at that which Djoser carries. They are statues dating exclusively with
the reign from Amenemhat III : a chest representing the Pharaoh dressed
like a priest, covered with a skin of leopard, discovered in the temple
of Sobek, at Mit Faris, and preserved at the Cairo
museum (JE 20001); a bust preserved at Rome, in the museum
of the Thermes (8607) and a group of statues, commonly called "the
Double-Nile", representing two characters whose arms, posed on floral
reasons, propose fish in offerings, and preserved at the Cairo
museum (CG 392).
It
appears obvious, by observing these three statues, that if one had wanted
to protect these so particular wigs by covering them with a cloth, it
was irremediably the form of the nemes which was to be essential, because
every characteristics of these wigs seem to correspond to an element of
the headcloth.
Let
us detail them.
The
pocket at the back of the nemes seems the best suitable one to contain
the braids than one finds in the back of all the statues. These braids,
re-installed in a compact mass, could thus be maintained on the nape of
the neck and fill this pocket, which will give to the nemes one its principal
characteristics.
As
for the large central braid, surely too thick to be raised like the others,
there was hardly other alternative to practise an opening in the medium
of the pocket to let it leave, leaves to lock up the end in a rigid sheath
of it.
With
front, the two clusters of braids are left in place and covered by the
fabric which will evolve, gradually, to give the lappets.
On
the level of the face, the thickness of the hair being less important,
the cloth can easily cover them and adopt the round form top of the head
and the face.

The
known first nemes after Djoser is that which the head of sphinx of Didoufri
carries, preserved
at the Louvre (E 12626). On this head, all the parts of the headcloth
(with share the braid, absent and lappets, destroyed) are such as they
will be represented thereafter until the end of the Egyptian history and
the wig already disappeared. One can then put the question to know how
this so particular wig could disappear so brutally in the representation
of the headcloth.
There
does not exist, to my knowledge, that two works which can help us in the
comprehension of the disappearance of this wig. They are two heads of
the reign of Mykerinos discovered by George REISNER
on the plate of Gizeh, and preserved, one in Cairo
(JE 40471) and the other in Boston (09.204).
These
two works are detached from works carrying a nemes because one can observe
reasons being connected with hair which are distributed on the face and
the temples for the head of Cairo, and only on the temples for that of
Boston.
One
does not know unfortunately the chronological distribution of these two
works, but logic would like that the head preserved at Cairo was carried
out before that of Boston. There would be thus a progressive disappearance
of the wig, first of all on the level of the face, then then on the level
of the temples.
It
is important to point out here that the straps are never represented on
the nemes before Mykerinos, while after its reign, they will be it always.
It is extremely possible that the reasons for the wig on the level of
the temples have summers covered by fabric, and that they would have then
preserved this form to become the straps.
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